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LONDON FASHION WEK:Day 5

25th February 2010

Last day of fashion week started early at the Tent. The Ashish show was held at 9am and I definitely needed some sequins galore to wake me up. He said it himself last season: “My design signatures are sequins, glamour, sportswear and more sequins.” Although this time around, Ashish girls were more grunge than glam. The styling was great and it was refreshing to see glittery pieces layered with heavy knitwear. And the now famous Alexander Wang side plaits were the perfect touch to finish the look.




Ashish


Peter Pilotto was showing at Selfridges’ car park and although it was very cold, it was great to see the talented duo pushing further their abilities. More than the usual (though beautiful nonetheless) cocktail dresses, Peter Pilotto also offered a plethora of daywear pieces, from coats and leather cardigans, to tailored trousers and shirts.
 More prints at Basso & Brooke, where the designers took their inspiration from a trip down to the Silk Road. Without a doubt, the amazing explosion of colors and collage of prints gave Basso & Brooke’s fans a run for their money.



Basso and Brooke

 

My final show was Jonathan Saunders at the Old Truman Brewery in Brick Lane, closing my fashion week round-up on very fresh note. I finished the day (well, evening…) back at the Selfridges car park, where Temperley London was launching its new sister line, Alice by Temperley, with a big Alice In Wonderland inspired party. You had to bend a little to enter what looked like a rabbit hole, where you could hear a clock ticking. There were magicians, staff dressed as rabbits, a clock ice-sculpture, and I even spotted Jade Jagger drinking tea in the corner…

Violaine Bernard.

Category : Designer Focus

LONDON FASHION WEEK: Day 4

25th February 2010

Antonio Berardi returned to LFW this season to deliver his glamorous new collection: Beautiful evening wear which reminded me a little of vintage Armani. My favourite had to be the floor length crimson velvet gown with crystal-encrusted tulle on the back. I have to admit I was a bit distracted by the Louboutin stilettos that the models were wearing, practically none of the girls could actually walk in them! At one point one of them nearly fell over and was caught just in time by a front-rower..



Antonio Berardi


With the rain still pouring I quickly made my way back to Somerset House to see the Osman show. Although the clothes were rather disappointing (apart from a couple of jersey dresses), I really loved the huge envelope bag in hot pink: perfect for carrying your laptop around in style!



Osman



 On a much brighter note, the Markus Lupfer presentation was cute and directional. The creative director has changed this season, but certainly didn't fail to deliver a young and fresh collection.
 Next was the Roksanda Ilincic show at the On|Off venue. After looking at the coats, jackets, and ultra chic daywear pieces passing by, I was relieved to see what Roksanda does best: Beautiful evening dresses. The way the fabric was swathed around the body looked strong and effortless.
 Marios Schwab was showing at the Topshop venue, so I took the opportunity to enjoy their delicious ice-tea one last time. Marios offered a beautifully detailed collection which included a brocade skirt with front zip, bolero jackets, and corset detail dresses.



Marios Schwab



 I then made my way to the Corinthia hotel to support Yvan the Facehunter for the launch of his book. I finished the night at Sketch, where a party was held to celebrate grandlifenyc.com, hosted by Scott Schuman, aka The Sartorialist.

Violaine Bernard.



The Satorialist party at Sketch


Category : Designer Focus

LONDON FASHION WEEK:Day 3

24th February 2010

I started day 3 with the Richard Nicoll show at the Topshop venue. I arrived a little early to enjoy the delicious breakfast served beforehand, and mingled my way through the crowd with a muffin still in hand. When I finally sat down, the show began with Francoise Hardy’s Le temps de l’amour, and by the time the 4th outfit went down the runway, I realized I was still singing along… Nicoll’s collection was clean, tailored and very easy to wear. Some velvet pieces were thrown into the mix, including a yummy blazer in burnt orange.



Richard Nicoll



 Next stop was the Freda presentation at the Langham Hotel, hosted by The City’s Olivia Palermo. A brunch was served throughout (it was a day of indulgence...) and a film by Kate Elson (twin of supermodel Karen Elson) was showing in the background, featuring Olivia herself. It was great to see my friends Katie and Laura from Red magazine, as well as catching up on gossip with Fashion writer favourite Indigo Clarke.



Olivia Palermo and the Freda presentation



After spending the rest of the day at the office, I put on my party outfit (the bullet Mawi necklace was de rigueur) and made my way to Aura, where singer Roisin Murphy (who took the decks later in the evening) was launching her new line of sunglasses in collaboration with Linda Farrow Projects. I bumped into my friend Charles Anastase, and decided to stay for one more drink. Little did I know what was coming next, for, in addition to Roisin’s live performance, there were dancers with feathered headgear and crystal encrusted leotards straight from Rio’s Carnival. It was pure spectacle!

Violaine Bernard.



The Roisin Murphy and Linda Farrow Projects party at Aura


Category : Designer Focus

LONDON FASHION WEEK: Day 2


22nd February 2010


The Charles Anastase  show is always a mesmerizing way to start the day. The collection, called “Winter Garden” was inspired by “crazy gardener” and climate change. You obviously don’t need to understand the concept to appreciate Charles’ creativity behind the exotic colors and the childlike layering. As Tim Blanks from style.com cleverly puts it “He creates images that spin around your head for hours”.



Charles Anastase



 Back at Somerset House, where an entire wall is dedicated to Alexander McQueen (and you can write your own little tribute), the Kinder Aggugini show was utilitarian chic (a big trend this season) with a touch of baroque.  Then I stopped at Mawi to check out their new jewellery. The only problem is that I want everything!!



Kinder Aggugini



Mark Fast and Mary Katranzou were showing back to back at the Topshop venue (another trend this season). Fast didn’t disappoint, keeping plus size models walking his show and introducing cape-like dresses to his signature mix of sexy cobweb numbers. Mary Katranzou played with proportions this season, which added depth to her exciting prints. On to the House of Holland show, where a front row crasher stole Mr Hudson’s seat just before the lights went off! The slightly baffled singer went quietly standing at the back, like a gentleman…




Mark Fast



House of Holland



I finished the day with the Ann-Sofie Back and PPQ shows before going back home and finally managing to have something to eat… “Fashion is all you need” as well as fried egg and chips…

Violaine Bernard.



Ann-Sofie Back





PPQ


Category : Designer Focus

LONDON FASHION WEEK: Day 1


22nd February 2010




The Alexander McQueen Tribute at LFW



For me, the first day of London Fashion Week really started at the Hakaan show. As the first prize winner at the “Young Fashion Designers” contest in Istanbul, Hakaan is really standing his ground. Beautiful structured dresses in a soft palette of white and beiges came to life in what seemed to be wool jersey with pleats on each side. Natalia Vodianova opened the show, followed by Mariacarla Boscono, Natasha Poly, Abbey Lee Kershaw and Lara Stone. The last of that supermodel line-up being David Walliams’ fiancée, managed to crack a smile at her beau, who was sitting front row between a giggling Kate Moss and a very upbeat French Vogue team. With all that glamour, I almost felt like I was in Paris Fashion Week for a moment! Of course, my camera’s battery was flat… Typical!


I couldn’t capture Felder Felder, Jean-Pierre Braganza and Hannah Marshall’s leather galore either, who were showing back to back at Victoria House. Maybe I’m just getting smaller or the heads on the front row are getting much bigger! I finished the day there, where the On|Off exhibition was held, featuring a stunning installation in the entrance with a stuffed deer, and a ceiling sculpture made entirely from hand cut paper. After the On|Off presents show, which includes designs from Derek Lawlor and Samantha Cole, we had a little play with Frieder Weiss’s installation, where the graphics on the screen move with you. Amazing! Because you can’t just work at LFW, you have to play a little…


Violaine Bernard.




Derek Lawlor at On|Off





Samantha Cole at On|Off





The Deer Installation at On|Off


Category : Designer Focus

RIP Alexander McQueen


12th February 2010



Illustration: Echo Morgan

Category : Designer Focus

Dominic Jones jewellery


Since 2008 and with the help of his long term friend and now business partner Alice Dellal, Dominic Jones definitely keeps going strong with his beautifully punk chic jewellery line. One of the most sought after jewellery in London, we already have a waiting list for his now infamous gold knuckle duster ring!

SHOP THE COLLECTION >

- Violaine Bernard

Category : Designer Focus

Heelraiser


Category : Designer Focus

Paris Fashion Week - ooh la la!

  

Ah Paris…. With its Indian summer and pouring rain (we actually went from boiling hot to freezing in the rain in just 2 days!), its onion soups and endless walks along the Seine. I miss Paris and its buttery croissants but being here during fashion week is the epitome of chic and I swapped patisseries for water, water and…a bit of champagne of course!

I started the day with the Anne-Valerie Hash show where the rather intimate venue was filled with supermodels including Irina Lazareanu - very cute with her new crop. It was a very strong collection, very feminine with drapy chiffon and glittery blouses in liquid organza. Next at Rochas, Marco Zazini’s SS10 collection played with transparency and went for Lolita-esque styling – love the pompom belts - definitely a DIY project to think about!



Gareth Pugh was the toast of the night with Rick Owens who came to support the young Brits’ favourite. Pugh went all soft on us with beautiful layers of grey chiffon and fluid Beetlejuice stripes. A fashion stranger sitting front row next to Fashion East’s Lulu Kennedy didn’t understand what was going on but had his thumbs up at the finale saying“ Who is Gareth Pugh? Is he Japanese?”.

 
 

The second day started with the Opening Ceremony showroom where we picked our favourites including those great clumpy super comfy booties which I can’t wait to wear with all the new summer dresses. Watching the Manish Arora show at the Crazy Horse, definitely felt like a night out, even if it was 1pm. The structured silhouettes were magnified by the shimmery hues of greys mixed with Arora’s  signature strong prints and bright colours.


 

What a surprise at the Sharon Wauchob show! It was mesmerizing from the first outfit to the last. Lace and intricate cut-out on leather jackets and chiffon dresses were dominating the catwalk, all in a monochromatic palette.


 

Bruno Pieters’ collection was all white and nude body-con galore mixed with beautifully structured and sheer little black dresses. But it’s the Rick Owens origami-like cropped jacket that I wanted to take home with me that day – a good thing I didn’t make it backstage then…

- Violaine Bernard

Category : Designer Focus

The latest reports from London Fashion Week!


 

 

DAY 5

On the last day of London Fashion Week, the queen of international press Anna Wintour arrived at the Peter Pilotto show before everyone else. Twenty minutes later, the models strutted down the catwalk like beautiful nymphs draped in lightweight chiffon and satin silk dresses. Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos seemingly took us right into a middle of a Monet Painting, where you could almost touch the prickly sea anemones...

At the New Gen exhibition, Scottish designer Louise Gray caught my eye with her great installation where you could see the way she blends bright colours and bold textures. After roaming through the vast exhibition space of Somerset House, we finally found where the Fashion East show was taking place and went straight to our seat with a hefty goody bag between our feet. The show consisted of 3 designers back to back and my favourite had to be the super talented Michael Van Der Ham with his deconstructed evening dresses - a real feast for the eyes!

It was so hot inside the venue at Jonathan Saunders that when I saw the models with their wet-look hair, I couldn't help but wonder if it was actually sweat running down their face! Transparency was the key to Saunders’ SS10 collection enhanced by a pretty pastel palette. After watching the explosive prints and structured silhouettes at Basso & Brooke back at the tent, I went to the Tuesday Night Band Practice party (the coolest T-shirt brand!), at the Den (what used to be the End club). Just one thing to say: Rock and Roll is back!

Violaine Bernard

 

 





 

DAY 4:

Starting the day with the Meadham Kirchhoff show at the Topshop space, I couldn't help but feeling emotional when the models were sent out to Nina Simone’s haunting voice (thank you Robin from Maria Luisa for pointing it out to me)... the beautiful series of dresses and romantic layers of chiffon were poetic and inspirational. It was undoubtedly my favourite show so far, with plenty of pieces I’d love to wear including their signature cut-off trousers and cute pink glittery T-shirts however, it's the black Plumetis dress adorned with midnight blue velvet bows that I'll be dreaming of until it hits the store.

Next location was Soho’s infamous Brewer Street car park where Josh Goot show was held. The invitation said "abstraction" and his SS10 formula did indeed, consist of colourful abstract prints. The two-tone trousers and polka dots silk shirt combo were for me, the epitome of sporty chic - perfect for sunny days. After the show I snapped my four favourite styles of the day on the beautiful Ece Sukan - Editor-at-large for Turkish Vogue, our very own Sarah Harris from Vogue UK, whom rocked the Chris Kane Tee like no one else, Japanese writer and fashion icon Yu Masui sporting the Louis Vuitton bunny ears headband, and Tommy from www.jakandjil.com/blog wearing the amazing Louboutin studs sleepers.

After a quick stop at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, I finished my day at the private view of Garence Doré’s exhibition for the Gap 1969 denim concept store. Some limited edition T-shirts with Garance’s illustration were on sale in-store (if you were lucky enough to grab one) and all the fashion enthusiasts were there to congratulate the beautiful Garance (who was wearing a Peter Pilotto skirt that she picked from Feathers few hours earlier!!).

Violaine Bernard



  


DAY 3

Yesterday morning I popped in to Qasimi show where it was all glamour and Grecian couture. Then I head down to the ON/OFF venue next to Somerset House for the Ponystep Beach Party, hosted by promoter extraordinaire Richard Mortimer (remember Boombox? That's him!). I was happy to catch up with the lovely Charles Anastase outside the venue before going back to the tent to check out more SS10 collections, including hipper than hip Mawi jewellery. I love the futuristic gold necklace, perfect worn with a white tee and a pair of cut-off denim shorts.

Like a lot of designers this season, Richard Nicoll SS10 was full of soft silhouettes and a muted palette. Like inside a beautiful aquarelle paint box, the colours flowed from greys and pinks to lilac and blues, ending with beiges with a touch of silver. Silks were fluid and draped around the waist creating easy to wear sarong-like skirts and the hibiscus prints were simply delicious. After the show, I quickly ran backstage where Sarah Mower was interviewing Richard Nicoll for style.com.

Violaine Bernard




  

DAY 2 CONTINUED...

Anyone who loves sequins will already be familiar with Ashish’s sparkly wonders. For his SS10 collection Ashish didn't disappoint – adding some bad-ass studs to the profusion of Hawaiian flower and flamingo prints that hit the runway. I also loved the ‘80s bleached denim jacket and the sunset palm tree dress - I'll be taking my next trip to the beach very seriously! We were all there to cheer at the finale including front-rower Paloma Faith, VV Brown, Michelle Williams and Channel 4’s Jameela Jamil who I snapped outside the Tent.

Later at the Old Finsbury Town Hall, Charles Anastase returned to his signature crinoline and babydoll dresses – for Alexa Chung's pleasure - who I saw running backstage at the end of the show. There were feminine fitted trench coats, long dresses and mini shifts, some with tangerine tulle peeking through. It was graceful and cute with the fairytale touch that makes Charles' designs so attractive.

When I arrived at the PPQ show on new Oxford Street, I was happy to escape the pouring rain and headed straight to the bar to get a Mojito where the lovely Hilary Alexander from The Daily Telegraph complimented me on my dress! It was all about the atmosphere rather than the clothes at PPQ last night… Naturally the crowd was heavy on young East End hipsters and I noticed the beautiful Taylor Tomasi - Accessories Editor for Teen Vogue (who normally skips LFW), looking confused when a heavily coiffed Jodie Harsh tried to squeeze in next to her.

Braving the last bit of rain, I made it to the Fantastic Man party for a last drink and got home with a goody bag!

Violaine Bernard

 

 

DAY 2:

It was an early start on Day 2, which was totally worth it considering I have always found Mark Fast’s distinctive knit dresses absolutely irresistible. It was also great to see a plus-size model opening the show, sporting his trademark black cobweb number. Although it’s still very much one of the sexiest labels you can find on the London runways, the SS10 collection definitely featured a more girly attitude with a palette of soft mint, lemon, nude and hot pink, accessorised with beads for party time. The shoes were courtesy of Mr Louboutin of course, who was front row seated next to Kate Phelan – Vogue’s Fashion Director.

Then I was off to the Blow Presents featuring young and original talents such as Iris Van Herpen with her incredible leather pieces. Talking about leather, the Hannah Marshall show was the place to be for ‘80s power dressing aficionados. There was amazing black chiffon and leather panels on dresses and Erin O’Connor gracefully closed the show in front of a celebrity-packed front row, including Skunk Anansie’s Skin, the Geldof sisters and the beautiful and pregnant Rosin Murphy.

Violaine Bernard









DAY 1:

In a venue like Somerset House, it's hard not feel part of something very special on this first day of London Fashion Week. So I head down to the tent where Hedonism show is held and with one glass of champagne in hand (yes I know it's 10.30am don't judge me!) I'm watching the unveiling of the emerging London milliners' most amazing pieces - it's like Alice in Wonderland going to Ascot!

After the show we even heard a speech from our Mayor Boris Johnson praising the fashion capital for its “originality and innovation”. When I got to Emilio De la Morena show I was so happy to discover the silk crepe cocktail dresses in beautiful hues of nude and lilac accessorized with thin studded belts - I want! I want! Couldn't help but congratulate the man backstage where I ran into my good friend Brylie Fowler, Editor-in-chief of Plastique Magazine sporting the most amazing Alexander Wang shoes - Courtesy of Feathers of course! I'm definitely working on getting better pictures and thank you Suzie Bubble for pointing at the notes on the wall backstage, commenting “that's quite funny why don't you take that?!”. After an agitated cab ride where the driver had no clue where he was going, Brylie and I just made it to Sass & Bide, a few seats away from Alison Mosshart and Kimberley Stewart.

I knew I had to go home perfecting my photographic skills (or learning should I say!) when the lovely Garance Doré and Scott Schuman told me nicely that actually I need to use my flash!! I ended the evening with the Aminaka Wilmont show, where the amazing prints were inspired by empty and abandoned buildings. How cool is that? No parties for me tonight I'm too tired. But tomorrow I'll be putting my heels on!

Violaine Bernard


Category : Designer Focus

Alexander Wang Shoes

   
The new Autumn/Winter collection is still going strong for the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund winner (and hipster’s favourite) Alexander Wang. Wang - best friend of Erin Wasson - named the infamous combat boots and other mock-croc killer heels from his powerful and sexy shoe line after a host of model friends! Think the “Lara” (Stone), the Hanne (Gaby Odiele) or the Anya (Rubik) and be part of the fashion pack.

Shop the collection

Category : Designer Focus

Aminaka Wilmont

 
For their third season after winning Fashion Fringe in 2008, design duo Maki Aminaka Lofvander and Marcus Wilmont is delivering a feminine and modern approach to a relaxed silhouette. The collection entitled "Time", features dreamy soft chiffon tunics and dresses with striking prints of light streams in indigo and yellow hues. It’s the fluidity and the intricate folding and draping, which make Aminaka Wilmont a high fashion label to watch.

SHOP THE COLLECTION

Category : Designer Focus

100% organic, 100% ethical and 100% summer must-have


The Environmental Justice Foundation is a registered charity that works to protect people and planet. Their charitable trust is running an international campaign to stop forced child labour in cotton production. 
In order to communicate their strong message across, they have created a line of 100% organic cotton t-shirts, ethically made and printed with the help of top designers such as Giles, John Rocha and Luella.

100% of the wholesale price will be donated.

SHOP NOW

 




Category : Boutique Exclusives

A/W 09 London Fashion Week Highlights

 
 
 
 
Even though you might expect the Autumn/Winter 09 collections to be on the darker side, it was refreshing to see some colours on the London Fashion Week catwalks! Basso & Brooke’s multicolored digital prints were taking us right back to Louis XIV’s rococo, Peter Pilotto’s big bang theory inspired dresses definitely took both press and buyers on a bright ride and Sinha-Stanic’s violet palette added softness to their perfectly made capsule collection.

It was not all splashes of colors however, as our favourite London duo Meadham Kirchhoff delivered a much lighter, yet breathtakingly beautiful collection. Structured cropped jackets were adorned with luxurious gold embroidery and the delicate ripped lace shirts were teamed-up with trousers cut-out at the knees, giving the silhouette a whimsically mechanical allure.

-Violaine Bernard

Category : Designer Focus

Linda Farrow Projects

 
Last London Fashion Week, Linda Farrow - one of the most exhilarating eyewear brands in fashion today - launched their new venture: Linda Farrow Projects.

In collaboration with exciting young designers such as Peter Pilotto, Preen, Danielle Scutt and Damir Doma, Linda Farrow presented the opportunity to each one of them to make an exclusive pair of sunglasses based on and to promote their own artistic vision.

Available in the Feathers boutique and coming soon to the online shop.

Linda Farrow Gallery and Linda Farrow Luxe lines are also available online and in store.


Category : Designer Focus

Current/Elliot at Feathers

 
We saw them during all the fashion weeks (and I mean all of them from New York to Paris). We talked about them throughout the fashion blogosphere. Now here they are, the Current/Elliott boyfriend denim, which has become the essential, or dare we say quintessential of this spring 09. Behind the easy casual factor, these jeans are the most flattering of all the attention seekers you’ll come across in the fashion planet. Our advice would be to grab a pair while you can…

Shop Current/Elliot

- Violaine Bernard

Category : Designer Focus

Vogue




 VOGUE talks to Feathers

THE CUSTOMER: “Loyal, and has shopped with us for years”


THE EFFECT OF THE CREDIT CRUNCH: “Feathers is more than 40 years old, so we’ve survived recessions. It’s tough but we feel prepared. We have cut our budget by 25 per cent, and we are definitely more cautious about what we buy - namely fewer, but more statement-making, expensive pieces by newer designers, such as Meadham Kirchhoff and Peter Pilotto.”


BEST SELLING LABELS: “Givenchy, Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester and Etro.



Category : Boutique Exclusives

Peter Pilotto SS09



For the second time round, print master Peter Pilotto and draping expert Christopher de Vos created stunning dresses featuring Peter Pilotto’s trademark intergalactic prints. This season, long jersey skirts elegantly swathed around the waist and tailored lamé sleeveless jackets which came in soft pink, cobalt blue and green were introduced to the collection. We also loved the stone adorned shoulders, adding instant power to the silhouette and immediate magic to the eye. A collection exploding with unique prints and a combination of vivid colors and softer pastels left us wanting more from the experimental design duo.


Shop the AW08 collection now.


- Violaine Bernard


Category : Designer Focus

Undercover: Urban punk attitude



It is not all casual street wear (i.e. the oversized hooded grey sweat) at Undercover this winter. Avant-garde men’s tailoring is added to the superhero inspired mix of quilted coats and loose knits. The autumnal shades of grey, black, beige and blue are the colours to worship. A very special mark had to be given to the indigo blue knitted cardi with leather patches and the urban punk biker jacket available in turquoise. Jun Takahashi’s designs are raw, dark and deconstructed and this winter he has taken us to a more colorful darkness - creating a delicate harmony between beauty and malice. J’adore!

Undercover is available in the Feathers stores in Knightsbridge and Notting Hill.


- Violaine Bernard

Category : Designer Focus

Moncler: light as a Feather

 
Moncler is taking the high road to success, bringing their legendary puffers back to the city. They are not just for skiing holidays anymore (even though I’ll be wearing mine on the slopes for Christmas…) and are taking over the high fashion scene! Trend-focused Moncler has successfully taken the puffer out of winter sporty boredom. Think trans-seasonal cosy wrapping. Voluptuous or ultra thin, Moncler puffers, light as a breath of air makes you want to be cold…really!


Shop Moncler.

- Violaine Bernard


Category : Boutique Exclusives

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